The Forever Tell All – Patagonia Round Two.

I surrendered my forehead to the rattling window. The cold of it felt nice, and over the intercom the pilot was speaking, loud and crackled and full of static, about the land that was being swept out beneath us. I didn’t have the energy to try and comprehend his Spanish, but it didn’t matter. I... Continue Reading →

Love and Longing in the Arrigetch Peaks

  The patter of raindrops on taught nylon was so familiar, it was almost comforting. Or perhaps it was comforting because it meant that we weren’t out there, climbing. In two days we had destroyed three of our four ropes, due to dislodged blocks, big falls, and sharp rock. Twenty-two days into our trip I felt exhilarated and unsettled.... Continue Reading →

The Southern Prong

“Waiting, watching the clock it’s four o’clock it’s got to stop, tell me……” what is the next line? I thought. “take no more?” Barry said. “take no more she practices her speech as he opens the door, she rolls….”   Our voices stopped and we both became still, listening. The rumbling had begun once again.... Continue Reading →

Nyainbo Yuze Expedition

At the start of the summer I purchased the book Seven Brief Lessons in Physics by Carlo Rovelli, as per recommendation by a friend. It came with such a glowing review that I declined to do any research on its actual subject. In all honesty, I assumed that the name was a witty jab at... Continue Reading →

Chamonix on the Cheap

“Are you selling drugs?” I smiled as I plodded down I-80 with Ciel, my sometimes-trusty Eurovampanion. “…because everyone at work thinks you’re selling drugs.” I let out a laugh. I have heard many interesting theories as to how I fund my climbing endeavors, but this was certainly one of the more audacious, especially coming from my... Continue Reading →

Pacific Northwesting

"I. Hate. This." "I" comes out hesitantly. The word "hate" is breathy, sometimes tremulous, with a strong "t". "This" is said deliberately, with a vengeance perhaps. These three words, spoken this way, have been uttered by me several times in my alpine career. Where do they come from? A place of fear? Of loathing? Of self-loathing? It's hard... Continue Reading →

A Patagonia Education

A short reflection from my recent Patagonia season.  When I first started going to the mountains, everything seemed complicated. Each time I laced up my boots I felt as though I was preparing for battle. Not against the mountains of course, I was fighting against myself- against my inadequacies- and in my initial months of attempting... Continue Reading →

Piritas Valley Expedition

  It’s 1 in the afternoon and Alan and I are packed into the back of a sedan along with three duffel bags and two overstuffed backpacks. Ivan, our Argentinian contact, is about to drive us off to the start of our expedition. His two young daughters are sitting in the front seat. "You fools!"... Continue Reading →

The Waiting Game- El Chalten

    It's 8AM. Maud and I are a few pitches up one of the classic "warm up" routes in El Chalten's Argentine Patagonia. We're both slumped against the cold granite at a hanging belay and decide it's a good idea to shove Maud's feet in my armpits in attempt to turn them back into... Continue Reading →

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